I have joined a number of groups on Flickr to try and get feedback on my photos.
(http://www.flickr.com/groups/shootingtolearn/)
I have only received feedback from two users so far:-
tigerita says:
given that several of them are underexposed, i'd suggest learning a bit about exposure.this one doesn't have the exif data, but the portrait is at ISO 800 (a high ISO which will make it more exposed - but can also make it grainy depending on the camera), f/16 (a narrow aperture which will make it less exposed) and 1/6 of a second (a slow shutter speed which will make it more exposed - but can also make it a bit blurred if your hands aren't steady)i'd start by setting your ISO to 100 and just playing with shutter speed and aperture, unless you're indoors and need the extra light. but in any case, set it for a situation and leave it there. the aperture and shutter speed can change shot-by-shot. shutter speed between 1/30 and 1/1000 is a nice normal range for most situations, and you can use the whole range of aperture, but remember that low numbers will give you a shallow depth of field (like those pictures where the subject is in focus and the rest is blurry) and high numbers will make everything in focus.you adjust the exposure with any of the three factors by levels which are called stops, and if you change two of them in opposite directions, the change will balance out. for example f/8 at 1/250 will get you the same amount of light as f/4 1/500 or f/16 1/125. my iso is at 100 unless it really needs to be higher, and i typically start at f/8 1/250 if it's sunny out - and adjust from there this is a useful introduction (especially sunny 16 and the section below it), but there are plenty of others out there:
www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understa nding-series...
(http://www.flickr.com/groups/shootingtolearn/)
I have only received feedback from two users so far:-
tigerita says:
given that several of them are underexposed, i'd suggest learning a bit about exposure.this one doesn't have the exif data, but the portrait is at ISO 800 (a high ISO which will make it more exposed - but can also make it grainy depending on the camera), f/16 (a narrow aperture which will make it less exposed) and 1/6 of a second (a slow shutter speed which will make it more exposed - but can also make it a bit blurred if your hands aren't steady)i'd start by setting your ISO to 100 and just playing with shutter speed and aperture, unless you're indoors and need the extra light. but in any case, set it for a situation and leave it there. the aperture and shutter speed can change shot-by-shot. shutter speed between 1/30 and 1/1000 is a nice normal range for most situations, and you can use the whole range of aperture, but remember that low numbers will give you a shallow depth of field (like those pictures where the subject is in focus and the rest is blurry) and high numbers will make everything in focus.you adjust the exposure with any of the three factors by levels which are called stops, and if you change two of them in opposite directions, the change will balance out. for example f/8 at 1/250 will get you the same amount of light as f/4 1/500 or f/16 1/125. my iso is at 100 unless it really needs to be higher, and i typically start at f/8 1/250 if it's sunny out - and adjust from there this is a useful introduction (especially sunny 16 and the section below it), but there are plenty of others out there:
www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understa nding-series...
My orginial question posted on Flickr was:- " I was wondering if there was a way to reduce the yellow light? I've tried using flash but the images turn out bland? "
stu-miller says:
Some ideas: 1 - try to move the lights out of the frame, or make some kind of shade for them. Camera is exposing for the light source, not for the objects.
2 - overexpose 2 stops so the detail in the lights will blow out but objects will be properly exposed.
3 - use the 410's exposure bracketing to overexpose 1 2 3 stops, then use master or studio to merge the properly exposes lights with properly exposed objects
4 - set color balance for lower temperature (warmer) lightThe shadows from the existing light make the photo interesting. Flash destroys these, making for a 'flat' image
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